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Hello and welcome to our blog about pond creation and maintenance.
This series of blog features are aimed at helping to answer many of the commonly asked questions and challenges faced by fish pond enthusiasts and how the products we manufacture, can help in various situations and circumstances.
As a UK Supplier of a wide range of pond equipment, we receive a lot of questions from people and we are aiming to make this blog a valuable resource of general advice or help for anyone interested in starting or maintaining their pond environment, in particular, the wellbeing of fish in ponds.
We plan to have in-depth information addressing the fundamentals of fish keeping, offer advice and explain how our pond products can help.
If you have any questions or enquiries you would like us to focus on and feature in our blog please contact Sam.
When it comes to finding the correct thread fitting it can be confusing especially when some brands/manufacturers make a bespoke thread size unique to their own products. meaning any replacement parts will have to be purchased directly from them ensuring the after-sale.
however, most of the threads used on the market are BSP (British Standard Pipe) threads, making them universal from products, brands and manufacturers because they are all manufactured to the same specification
When checking and replacing your couplings or fittings, you will need to know how to measure their BSP (British Standard Pipe) threads. These can be BSPP, where they are parallel, sealed by a washer or an ‘O’ ring seal or BSPT, where they are tapered along their length, sealing with mating male and female threads.
This is a common confusion leading customers to question the replacement and spare parts that they actually need for their machine. We want to help abolish this ambiguity in choosing your correct couplings, so take a look at the measurement guide below so you know exactly what to look for.
First, to determining the thread size:
Now you know the BSP thread size you are looking for have a look at our threaded fitting range We stock everything from rigid pipe converters to multi-stepped hosetails for flexi hose
In this short article, I'm hoping to clarify a few questions that some might have and put to bed a few "rumors" that surround ozone and the MK2 Ozonair unit.
To do this we contacted Air Care Products, the manufacturer of the Ozonair unit and other steeple products in the koi and pond trade which have been manufacturing water and air purification systems for over 50 years.
Is Ozone dangerous? - Ozone is a potent oxidizer and can be fatal if implemented in the wrong dosage, an ORP above 700 mV would kill any type of aquatic life within minutes. However, the Ozonair unit has been designed to produce a small dosage of (500mg)of Ozone per hour. Providing that the correct dosages are used and ORP is monitored on a regular basis there will be no detrimental effects. The Ozonair unit introduces ozone directly to the water via aeration, the bubbles from the aerator contain a low amount of ozone gas. The bubbles travel from the aerator directly up to the water's surface and are expelled, meaning the ozone has very little contact time with the water or little opportunity for the highly reactive hydroxyl radicals to interact with the beneficial bacteria in the pond. When ozone gas is introduced into pond water, the chemical reaction is instantaneous. After oxidation, it returns to its original form of oxygen without leaving behind any toxins or byproducts that could hurt the aquatic ecosystem.
Air Care Products have been manufacturing and distributing the Aquasure Ozonair units globally since the early 2000s, During this time it has been implemented in a multitude of fresh and saltwater applications from Tropical fish egg tumbler tanks, large-scale koi breeders/wholesalers, trout farms and right through to the pond hobbyist. In this time there have been NO reports of any detrimental effects whatsoever to any type/breed of fish of any size or age. All ozone has been introduced to the water directly via aeration and all fish have been exposed directly to the bubbles.
Will Ozone Damage My Bottom Drain? - There seems to be a lot of speculation regarding how quickly ozone will attack and break down bottom drains and aerators. Ozone will degrade some plastics faster than others depending on their Ozone resistance levels. polymers such as PVC, Viton, HDPE, Silicone PVDF, Butyl and PTFE are rated "A" in ozone resistance making them completely ozone stable. Polymers such as ABS, Polyethylene and EPDM are rated "B", ozone will affect "B" rated polymers but from our own experience, this happens over many years when exposed to the dosages that the Ozoneair unit produces. However Nylon is classed as "D", Nylon is used in the vast majority of air fittings, and we have found this to be the only material that has been affected by the ozone again this is still over a period of 8-10 months. This isn't too dissimilar to the effects a Nylon fitting would succumb to if exposed to direct sunlight (UV)
Air Care Products produces a range of aerated bottom drains, weighted suction domes and free-standing aerators. The Aqua-Jet aerator range incorporates models with perforated rubber membranes and models with perforated hose. All products have been extensively tested and used in conjunction with the Ozoneair units and NO DAMAGE HAS BEEN FOUND to any of the products. the only item found to break down over an 8-10 month period was the Nylon air fittings used in the construction of some of the aerators, however, All Nylon components are easily replaced. Due to Air Care Products being an injection moulding company they have the expertise and experience to know what polymers are suited for their desired application.
Air Care Products purposely designed the Aqua-Jet Aerator range to be used in conjunction with the Ozonair unit, all materials and polymers used are designed to withstand many years of exposure to ozone.
Other aerated products on the market that are not manufactured by Air Care Products have not been tested in conjunction with the Ozoneair unit so no comment can be made in regards to their ozone resistance properties. However, if similar materials have been used in the construction of the aerators like the ones used in the Aqua-Jet range manufactured by Air Care Products there is no reason to believe they wouldn't be suitable to be used in conjunction with the Ozonair units
SUBAIR Bottom Drains - If the application of a "hidden airline Bottom Drain" is used it is advised that ozone should not be used. If ozone is being added to a system it is recommended that all airlines and fittings are easily assessable and can be maintained if required
Where to install the Ozonair unit?- Although weatherproof (IP45), The Aquasure Ozone Purifier Unit MK2 should not be installed in any position where it might be submerged (fully or partially), subject to flooding, puddling, freezing or extreme conditions. A unit damaged due to any of the above is not covered by the guarantee
The Ozonair unit should only be used in a well-ventilated application like an open pond/outside tank. If an inside application is required please ensure suitable ventilation is installed.
Recommended Airflow- The Ozonair unit can be used in conjunction with any sized air pump. providing that the air is fully exhausted through the desired aeration methods, for example, an air pump of 45LPM run in conjunction with a HI-BLO aerator will ensure suitable airflow through the unit while still offering superb effects in regards to oxidation potential.
The more air that is passed directly through the unit the better, this will firstly offer more ozonated air to be pumped into the pond and secondly keep the ozone cell cool.
Getting the most out of your Ozonair Purifier- To get the best out of the Aquasure Ozonair unit it is recommended that it is used in conjunction with an aerator from the Aqua-Jet Air diffuser range, The Aqua-Jet aerator range has been designed especially with the Aquasure Ozone Purifier unit MK2 in mind. The range of aerators produces a huge plume of fine bubbles that maximize the saturation of Ozone in the water, ensuring maximum efficiency and effectiveness
Is my pond too large for this little unit? - Despite The Aquasure Ozonair unit only admitting a small dosage of ozone,the ORP will continue to rise vus still resulting with the desired effects even on the largest of applications. The only difference will be the time taken to increase the ORP. For example, a 10,000 gallon pond will take twice as long to achieve an ORP of 300mV compared to a pond of 5000 gallons.
The more conventional ultraviolet sterilizers will only treat air/water that comes into contact with the UV bulb or quarts. After the air/water has passed through and out of the UV unit the sterilization process will stop. The oxidation reaction produced by the Ozonair purifier unit works differently, even after the air/water has passed through and out of the unit and is not in contact with the ozone cell. The oxidation reaction will still accrue and carry on treating any oxidizable substances that are present.
Should I Use Ozone & UV together? - it is advised that an ultraviolet sterilizer is used in conjunction with the Aquasure Ozonair unit, this ensures maximum treatment potential for all ponds
Bio/Fluidized Filtration Beds - it is advised that ozone is not introduced directly into a biological filter of any sort, ozone will oxidize any bacteria it comes in contact with, good or bad.
Medication - If the application of treatment/medication is added into the water it is advised that the Aquasure Ozoneair unit is turned off for a period of 96 hours before adding treatment of any sort. once added it it advised that the unit should stay off for a period of 168 hours. this will ensure the added medication will not be oxidized by the ozone
Pond care can be time consuming and difficult, especially when it comes to learning what the best water parameters for your pond should be and how to keep track of them. When it comes to ponds, pH is one of the big parameters you need to be routinely checking. Different plants and animals have different pH requirements, which makes understanding pH, how to check it, and how to adjust it important to their health and wellness.
This is based on a scale you likely learned about in middle or high school science classes. If water is acidic, the pH is low. If water is alkaline or basic, the pH is high. If water is neutral, the pH is right in the middle.
To get more technical, pH measures the number of free hydrogen and hydroxyl ions in the water. The pH scale ranges from 0–14, with 0 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. A neutral pH sits right at a 7.0. These levels directly correlate to the solubility and bioavailability of chemicals, like nutrients and heavy metals, in the water. It also ties in with water KH and GH, which gets into some really complicated chemistry. At baseline, though, you should understand the basic pH scale and what the numbers mean.
Keep in mind that we tend to think of things in a Hollywood kind of way. Many people carry the idea that acids will burn right through your skin, while alkaline objects are gentler and safer. While there are acids that will burn right through your skin, there are a whole lot of acids that won’t. In fact, some fish require water with a pH around 5.0–6.0, which is acidic, but not so acidic that you will hurt yourself if you put your hand in the tank.
When you think about chemicals like ammonia and lyme, you likely associate those with burning and skin damage, but both of these are alkaline. Ammonia has a pH of 11.0 and lyme has a pH of 12.4. In fact, lye, which we hear about in movies being used to break down bodies, has a pH of 13.0. Looking at it this way may help you better understand that alkaline isn’t inherently safe, while acidic isn’t inherently dangerous.
That really depends on what you have living in your pond. However, the most common pond fish are goldfish and Koi fish, which require a relatively neutral pH. They can live at pH levels from about 6.5–8.5, but they are happiest and healthiest with a pH around 7.5. If you’re keeping turtles in your pond, then you can safely keep your pH between about 6.0–8.0.
Keep in mind that you want your pH level to stay stable. Small changes are usually not a big deal, but if your pH rapidly swings up or down, then you may end up with a pond of dead animals. This is where KH and GH come into play, because the softer the water, or the lower the GH and KH, the less buffering power the water has and the more likely it is to experience rapid pH changes. The higher the GH and KH, the more buffering capacity the water has, leading to more stability in the pH.
When it comes to checking pH levels, you have two options. The best option is to use liquid test kits, which tend to give reliable results. The API Pond Master Test Kit is a good choice because it includes a wide range pH test, as well as tests for ammonia, phosphate, and nitrite. You can also purchase pH tests separately from a kit.
The other testing option is test strips, which tend to give less reliable results with some readings, but pH levels are typically pretty reliable. The API 5-in-1 Pond Test Strips are a good pick because they also allow you to see the GH and KH levels of the water, which will help you know the stability of your pH.
Perform a pH test to determine your water’s pH. If you are going to attempt to alter the pH, then you should check the pH right before you begin attempting to make changes. If you checked the pH last week and it was low, then you need to recheck it now to ensure the pH is still at a level that requires adjustments.
To raise the pH, you need to add something to the water that is alkaline. Keep in mind that you want pH levels to change slowly, not wildly swing the opposite direction, so don’t go overboard when adding things. You can always add more later.
Baking soda is a favorite product for raising pH that is easy to come by. Seachem Alkaline Regulator is a great product that comes with specific instructions on how to adjust your pH safely. There are multiple products on the market to adjust your pH levels, so choose what you feel will work best and be safest for your pond.
Wait at least 12 hours before retesting your pH levels, although 24-48 hours is best. Your pH levels shouldn’t be swinging rapidly, so if you add something to raise the pH, then immediately check your pH and see that it’s still low, then you may be getting a false reading because the products you added haven’t had time to begin working. If you recheck your pH too soon, you may end up inappropriately adding more product than necessary.
Once you’ve determined that your pH levels still need adjustments, then you can add more product to the water. Continue to follow the directions on the package, though. If you feel like you should have seen more of a shift in the pH, so you add a higher dose of product than recommended, then you may cause a rapid pH shift, leading to the death of your pond animals.
Make sure your pH levels are checked right before you begin attempting to make adjustments. This is especially important if your water is soft since soft water can experience more rapid changes in pH than hard water.
There are a few ways to lower the pH of your pond water. Some of the slowest but simplest ways are to add peat or leaf litter to the water. Indian Almond, Jackfruit, and Mulberry leaves are all great options to slowly lower the pH of your water. Driftwood is also a good choice. Keep in mind that these items will lower your pH slowly over time and will release tannins into the water, making the pond water dark tea colored.
Wait at least 12 hours, with 24-48 hours being preferred, before rechecking the pH levels. If you are using a method to slowly change your pH, like driftwood and leaf litter, then it’s best for you to regularly check your pH for at least 1-2 weeks after adding these products. This will allow you to see if you added enough to create a shift in the overall pH of the pond.
If you are using a chemical additive, then you can add more if needed. If you are using leaf litter and driftwood, then you can add more leaf litter and driftwood to the pond. This will lower and maintain the pH as the products break down.
Understanding the ins and outs of pH can be confusing. It’s a complicated thing to understand, especially when you start getting into GH and KH. It is necessary to understand the basics, though. Keeping your pond’s pH stable is going to keep your fish healthier than rapidly altering the pH will.
Rapid pH swings can result in the death of animals and even some plants. For the safety of your aquatic friends, make sure you carefully follow the instructions on any products you add to your pond. This will help you prevent large pH swings while safely adjusting the overall pH to where you need it to be.
Experts agree that ponds need a pH of between 6.5 and 8.5, with the ideal level being 7.4 to match the blood of the fish. Below 6.5 and above 8.5, fish can become stressed, which makes them more prone to illness. Fortunately, you can and should test the pH of your pond, especially if you notice a change in your fish, such as poor eating habits or a change in their movement.
The 3 Methods to Raise pH In Your Pond
Through regular testing, you will know whether your pond has suffered a pH crash. If it has, you should bring the pH level back up again. Below are some of the methods that can help increase a pond’s pH value.
1.Test Your Tap Water and Change the Water
If your pond water has too low a pH, it might be impractical or impossible to increase its rate quickly enough. In these instances, it may be necessary to perform a water change. Before doing so, however, you will need to test the pH value of your tap water. It will be easier to treat the water before adding it to the pond. You shouldn’t drain the pond, but you can complete a 50% water change if you really need to.
Calculate your current pH value and what it will rise to when combined with your tap water to determine the volume you need to add.
2.pH Adjuster
Water pH adjusters are products that you add to the water that increase or decrease the average pH value. They use safe compounds to increase or decrease acidity. Some use natural compounds, others use chemicals, but all should have been tested to ensure that they are safe for use with fish. Follow the directions on the packet or tin. You will need to know the approximate volume of water in the pond, as well as its current pH level. This will enable you to calculate how much of the adjuster you require.
3.Baking Soda
If you have a plentiful supply or access to a supply of baking soda, it can be used as an alternative to commercial pH adjusters. Add 1 teaspoon of baking soda to every 8 gallons of water. Dissolve it in water in a bucket first. It is better for your fish if it is diluted beforehand. Once mixed, add it to the pond, allow some time for it to be pumped around the pond and mixed with the existing water, and then measure the pH again.
Testing Pond Water
There are certain times that you should test the pH of your pond water. For example, if you add or remove plants, dig or fill in any area of the pond, or if you have added a lot of new fish recently. Major storms, flooding, and the cycle of freezing and thawing water may also adversely affect the pH of the water, so you should test after these incidents.
Fortunately, you can buy testing kits that are easy to use. These will usually allow for multiple tests to be conducted, and one of the simplest methods is to add a water sample to a test tube and combine it with the testing solution. Some such testing kits will look for the presence and overabundance of chemicals like ammonia and nitrite, too.
What Causes Low pH In a Pond?
A pH crash can be caused by several factors. The water pH value will fluctuate naturally over the day, determined by the carbon hardness of the water. Lower levels of carbon hardness mean greater fluctuation in your pH value. The more water in the pond, the less likely it is to fluctuate. Anything over 2,300 gallons (9,000 liters) of water is considered to be reasonably safe from pH crashes. If you have endured a sustained period of heavy rain, this can bring your pH crashing down so measure the level after a heavy rainstorm.
Pay particular attention to the pH of the water you use during a water change, especially if you live in an area with soft water. Soft water has a naturally low pH value that can bring the average level of your water down.
Can You Lower pH?
As well as commercial pond adjusters to increase pH, you can also buy products that lower pH. Instead of baking soda, measure 1/4 cup of vinegar for every 500 gallons of water and mix it in a bucket of water before adding it to the pond. The acid neutralizes the alkalinity to create a neutral environment that best suits your fishy inhabitants. Once you’ve added it to the pond, let the pump do the trick. Measure the pH level again after 12 hours.
Final Thoughts
pH levels are an important measure of the acidity and alkalinity of water. If your water has a pH level below 6.5, it could be causing stress and illness for your fish, and you must take action to try and increase the pH value safely but quite urgently. Use baking soda or commercial pH adjusters to achieve this. Alternatively, you can perform a water change if you have a particularly low pH or are struggling to find an alternative means of creating a neutral environment.
WRAS is an acronym for the "Water Regulations Advisory Scheme". This is a group comprised of the 26 UK water suppliers. The aim of the group is to ensure that equipment and materials used in water supplies do not contaminate the water, and to encourage efficient use of water.
All materials and equipment used in drinking water supplies must be WRAS approved.
Approval is gained through submitting components to one of a handful of recognised and approved laboratories for analysis, to ensure it conforms to the relevant British standards. In essence, this is a form of quality mark, as it tells the user that the component/material is checked and passed as suitable for drinking water supplies.
Suitability for Other Fluids The WRAS approval shows that (in our case) the PVC and ABS pipe and fittings are suitable for drinking water; however, this does not necessarily mean that they are suited to all foodstuffs. Although in general, plastic pipe (both PVC and ABS) is very good with most chemicals, some food slurries and liquids may contain strong acids, alkalines, oils and other chemicals that will attack the plastic pipe
PVC Fittings: 2003505, 1705075
PVC Pipe: 2012515, 2010508
ABS Fittings & Pipe: 1703070
How to Measure Your BSP FittingsWhen it comes to finding the correct thread fitting it can be confusing especially when some brands/manufacturers make a bespoke
In this short article, I’m hoping to clarify a few questions that some might have and put to bed a few “rumors” that surround ozone
Pond care can be time consuming and difficult, especially when it comes to learning what the best water parameters for your pond should be and
Experts agree that ponds need a pH of between 6.5 and 8.5, with the ideal level being 7.4 to match the blood of the fish. Below
WRAS is an acronym for the “Water Regulations Advisory Scheme”. This is a group comprised of the 26 UK water suppliers. The aim of the
This article will give you a brief and simple explanation of the differences between UV and Ozone and how they work in-conjunction with purifying pond